Getting Started in Woodturning - 4

WHAT IS MY TOTAL TURNING BUDGET? (Continued)

So aside from the lathe, what are the absolute basic "essentials" you'll need to get started in turning?

1 - Safety Equipment

Safety equipment should be your first priority and purchase. If you are willing to skip these then you should seriously consider taking up another hobby (like basket weaving).

First and foremost: A face shield is an absolute MUST in woodturning.

Turning may seem like a relatively safe endeavor (as far as shop tools are concerned) but you are still working with a power tool and dealing with spinning objects that can potentially turn into a ballistic missile or explode into shrapnel in the blink of an eye. This may not happen to you often but it only takes once to receive a serious injury.

So, with the above in mind, everyone repeat after me: "I will always wear a face shield!"

Good.

Next, give careful thought to dust protection. Why? Woodturning creates fine dust; you want to live to be a little old turner. Simple as that.

Don't scrimp here. This is an area where you will want to invest in decent equipment. Adequate dust protection is a hotly debated topic but all sources agree that paper dust masks are not sufficient protection from fine wood dust. The best approach is a multi-level attack that collects dust at the source, filters the air in your shop, and provides you personal protection. The commercial market abounds with air scrubbers, filters, half-mask respirators, full-face respirators, dust collectors, etc. Do some research on the topic and decide what is best for you and your turning environment.

Other important safety concerns include good lighting and a comfortable floor covering (or at least good shoes). Be sure your turning environment is well illuminated and don't stand on bare concrete for long periods at a time unless you enjoy back problems.

2 - Tools

You are obviously going to need turning tools (or chisels as they are sometimes called). These can range anywhere from $30 for a 6-piece entry-level set to as much as several hundred dollars for a single high-quality tool. Your tastes and pocketbook should be the determining factors in your choice but once again, high-dollar tools are NOT going to make you a better turner.

Opinions vary widely on which tools make the best "starter set" for a new turner but the following usually receive a consensus:

Spindle Turning Tools
   3/8" or 1/2" spindle gouge
   3/4" skew (or larger)
   3/4" spindle roughing gouge
   1/8" or 3/16" parting tool

Bowl Turning Tools
   3/8" or 1/2" bowl gouge
   1/2" round-nose scraper

With the tools listed above you would be well equipped to tackle most beginner-level to intermediate-level turning projects.

Most turners prefer tools made of High-Speed Steel (HSS) or better. These purportedly hold an edge longer than carbon steel but there's nothing wrong with either. If it cuts wood it will work.

You will also want to put some thought into whether you should purchase individual tools or buy them as a set. There are pros and cons to both approaches. Buying individual tools allows you more flexibility in choosing size, brand, quality, etc. for each tool you purchase. The most common criticism of buying a set is that you may end up purchasing tools you don't need or use. I tend to agree with this but there is merit in buying a basic budget set to start out with (see next paragraph).

Next, consider your level of sharpening skills before putting money into high-quality, high-dollar tools. Unless you are already proficient at sharpening it makes more sense to start with a basic low-grade set until you have developed some rudimentary sharpening skills. Trust me, tools are like rabbits - you'll accumulate more (and better quality) tools as time goes along. Learning to sharpen on a $100 gouge can be an expensive lesson.

Last, don't think that a particular tool must always be better simply because it has a famous name attached to it. In some cases there may be valid reasons why they are worth the extra cost (e.g. unique design, better steel, etc). But paying extra for a particular turner's "signature grind", for example, makes no sense. You can put any grind on any tool you like. After all, they're your tools.

3 - Sharpening System

One of the most frequently asked questions from new turners is, "How often will I have to sharpen?"

Very often. A regular sharpening schedule quickly becomes routine to a turner. You'll probably want to touch up your tools before at least every other pen. I rarely start turning a bowl without a trip to the grinder. Even those new tools you just bought will probably need sharpening before they are fully ready for use.

Sharpening systems are a matter of personal preference and budget. There is no "right" way to sharpen your tools (but there are plenty of "wrong" ways). As long as your system is capable of quickly putting a fine edge on your tool it will work. Many turners use a standard bench grinder with aluminum oxide wheels (or better). Others prefer more esoteric systems such as the Jet or Tormek. Such high-end systems work very well if you have the budget or already own one. If this is the case you may want to look into special attachments for turning tools.

Bench grinders are one of the more common methods of sharpening, and the least expensive (other than sandpaper or hand stones - both of which can be made to work but are extremely slow and therefore less practicable). Grinders generally come in three flavors: high-speed (3450 RPMs), low-speed (1725 RPMs), and variable-speed. Regardless of what anyone tells you, it doesn't matter what speed grinder you use for sharpening HSS tools. Any of the above will work just fine.

Another grinder choice you'll be faced with is wheel size. 8" grinders are often touted as putting less of a concave on the tool bevel than a 6" grinder. I always laugh when I hear this. Again, it doesn't really matter. The wood is not going to know the difference. The best argument for an 8" wheels is that it offers widths up to 1" giving you a bit more sharpening surface to work with. 6" wheels are generally 3/4" wide. Again, the difference is a matter of convenience and personal preference. Either will work just fine.

As mentioned above, aluminum oxide wheels (or better) are well suited for sharpening HSS steel. Wheel color is not important. Wheels between 80 to 120 grit are generally considered good for sharpening. 60 grit wheels (or lower) are best for reshaping but could also be used for sharpening with a light enough touch.

The AAW has a good video available for purchase that covers the fundamentals of sharpening for those who are new to the art.

4 - Sanding/Finishing Supplies

The last "essential" to consider is basic supplies. These include sanding supplies, finishes, etc. As consumable items you'll be surprised at how quickly the cost of these items can add up.

For spindle projects (such as pens, bottlestoppers, etc.) you'll probably want sandpaper in standard sheet form. For larger projects (such as bowls) you may want to look into 2" or 3" Hook & Loop (H&L) sanding disks and either an inertial sander (for sanding on the lathe - e.g. Sorby Sandmaster or similar) or a power sander (for off-lathe sanding).

Wood finishes are an entire topic in themselves and well beyond the scope of this article. For a good introduction into sanding and finishing I highly recommend Russ Fairfield's article, "Finishing Secrets".

Is that all?

Not by a long shot. But the items shown above are the bare-bone "essentials" for getting started in general woodturning. Some specific types of turning require other items. Here's two worth mentioning:

Chainsaw / Band saw - A chainsaw and/or band saw is indispensable for face plate/chuck turners. When working with large pieces such as bowl blanks, platters, vases, etc. you will need a way to round off your blank in preparation for mounting it on the lathe. Rounding off the blank prior to mounting keeps you from having to turn away appendages, corners, etc. and brings the piece into better balance thus making it safer to work with.

Pen turning - Pen turning requires a few specialized items not typically used in other types of turning. To start off in pen turning you will need at least the following:

   Drill press (or method for drilling on the lathe)
   Pen vice (i.e. drill press vice)
   Mandrel
   Bushings
   Pen kits
   Pen press/assembler (e.g. "bench vice" or "pipe clamp")
   Micromesh (i.e. fine sand paper)
   Glues (e.g. CA, epoxy, etc)

Pen turning is an entire subject in itself. For a great introduction I highly recommend you visit the website of Russ Fairfield. Russ has forgotten more about pen turning than I'll ever know (and I've turned hundreds of pens).

[Editor's note: The turning community lost a good friend and teacher when Russ left us in January 2011. Luckily his website is still maintained by friends. RIP Russ.]

Spend some time researching each of the categories above to get a realistic idea of what your initial accessory costs will be. Knowing this figure up front will help you avoid surprises when the time comes to put down your hard-earned money.

Side note: Be sure and read Jerry Hall's excellent article for a few suggestions on specific items.

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