Getting Started in Woodturning - 6
WHICH LATHE SHOULD I BUY? (Continued)
Now let's examine a few things to look for in a lathe (and conversely, a few things to avoid).
1) Safety Factors:
Safety should always be your first priority. One of the most critical safety factors in a lathe is the manufacturer's choice of speed range. As previously discussed, many lathes have too high of a minimum speed for safely turning large, out-of-balance pieces (e.g. bowl work). If you plan to turn bowls you should look for a lathe with a minimum speed of 500 RPMs or lower. Lathes with minimums slightly higher than 500 RPM can be used but you'll need to be very diligent in rounding off your blanks with a band saw or chainsaw to balance them before mounting.
Lathes with a minimum speed of 1,000+ RPMs should NOT be considered for bowl work. Such lathes are strictly designed for spindle work.
Also pay attention to the gaps in the lathe's speed range. For example, a non-variable-speed lathe with speed settings of 500, 1300, 1900, 2700... is much better suited for spindle work. There are simply not enough usable speeds at the low-end for bowl work.
Next, a number of full-size lathe models are marketed with a featured called "outboard turning" to increase the swing capacity of the lathe. This is generally done by either rotating the headstock 90 to 180 degrees, or by sliding the headstock to the end of the bed.
Outboard turning should be viewed with a wary eye. Two important safety concerns need to be considered:
a) Is the lathe's support platform rigid and sturdy enough to handle swinging large objects outside the center of gravity? Any lathe with a gross weight of less than 300 lbs is probably not designed for safe outboard turning of large, out-of-round pieces.
b) How is the tool rest accommodated? Quite a few lathes come with a "tool rest extension" for outboard turning. My opinion is that these extensions are not safe and should be discarded. Too many reports have been heard of extensions breaking on a hard catch. This could lead to serious injury.
2) Build Quality:
In a previous section we discussed the subject of quality. I would argue that your lathe is one area you should invest in good quality. Why?
Build quality is key to your enjoyment of a lathe. A poorly-built lathe can be frustrating at best, and dangerous at worst.
This is not to suggest you only buy top-of-the-line equipment. But don't be tempted by the other extreme and buy the cheapest lathe available. Putting money into a "budget lathe" almost guarantees that you will upgrade in the not-too-distant future (or wish you could, assuming you stick with turning at all). Why spend money twice when you can put that same money into a better quality lathe up-front, even if it means stretching the wallet a bit more or waiting a bit longer?
Some things to look for related to quality include:
(a) Do the center points between the headstock and tailstock exactly align? Any misalignment (i.e. "run-out") is cause for concern.
(b) Does the lathe exhibit any vibration when running under no load at different speeds?
(c) How rigid is the support platform? If the lathe has legs, are they made from cast iron, aluminum tubing, or tin? (Hint: you don't want the latter.)
(d) Does the toolrest lock easily and firmly into position? Does it slide easily over the "ways" (i.e. bed)? Are the toolrest cam locks metal or plastic?
(e) How good are the castings on the lathe's frame? Are there rough or sharp edges?
3) Design and Ergonomics:
The key question here is: was the lathe designed by and for woodturners? "AnyToolCompany.com" may make terrific "flatwork" tools but do they know squat about woodturning? Many manufacturers dutifully clone a popular lathe model and put their version on the market. Is it usable? Certainly. It spins wood, doesn't it? But more than likely it will come with many compromises and limitations because the manufacturer simply doesn't understand the finer points of turning. This is a common complaint with many "budget lathes". Examples of poor design include:
a) Minimum speed too high (as discussed above),
b) Under-powered motor,
c) Non-standard component sizes (e.g. headstock spindle, tailstock, toolrest post, etc).
You, as the owner, will need to learn to work within the constraints and limitations of the tool. You may also have to replace some accessories should you ever decide to upgrade to a better quality lathe.
4) Features:
As you compare lathes you'll notice quite a few common features (aka "bells-and-whistles"). Let's mention a few.
(a) Electronic Variable Speed (EVS) - EVS allows you to adjust your speed to any point within the lathe's predefined speed range with a simple twist of a dial. Note that some lathes have two or more speed ranges requiring the operator to move a belt position to jump from one range to another. EVS owners will tell you it's a "got-to-have". My Jet 1442 is a Reeves drive (non-EVS) and I manage to get along just fine without it. Again, the wood I'm hacking at doesn't know the difference. It's all a matter of personal preference and convenience.
(b) Reverse - Reverse allows the turner to change the direction of the spin for sanding purposes, sanding both with and against the grain. Reverse also allows left-handed turners to turn from the obverse side of the lathe. Nice to have but again, most folks can easily get along without it.
(c) Indexing - Indexing is simply a way of locking the spindle at precise positions allowing the turner to decorate a piece by carving, fluting, etc. Most turners would rarely (or never) use this particular feature. Your mileage may vary.
(d) Sliding Headstock - A sliding headstock simply allows you to turn from the end of the bed making hollowing much more pleasant. I find this feature very useful on full-size lathes.
(e) Rotating Headstock - Rotating headstocks are often marketed as a means of outboard turning. As I mentioned in #1 above, I am not a fan of outboard turning for the reasons stated. However, rotating headstocks can still be useful for hollowing, sanding, and other tasks that do not involve toolrest extensions.
So, do you really need any or all of these features?
There's only one feature that you absolutely need in a lathe: it should be able to safely spin wood at various speeds. Aside from that, any other features are nice to have, but not necessarily "needed". They are simply matters of convenience.
5) Track Record:
One of the best ways to gauge a particular lathe model is to talk to owners and find out what they think. A great place to do this is online woodturning discussion forums (see my Links page for a list). But always keep in mind that what you are getting are opinions. An owner of a "Brand X" who has never seen "Brand Y" will often tell you that one is as good as the other. Take that for what it is worth.
6) Warranty:
Pay attention to the warranty. A warranty can tell you a lot about the manufacturer's confidence in their product. As a rule-of-thumb I would pass on any lathe with a 1-year (or less) warranty. You don't need the headaches. Most lathe manufacturers have at least a 2-year to 5-year warranty . Obviously, more is better.
WHAT LATHES ARE AVAILABLE?
Hopefully this page has given you some perspective on things to look for above and beyond a lathe's specifications. As we have seen, specs alone are not always a good indicator. There are over 100 new lathes available and many hundreds of used lathes on the market. See the Wood Lathe Listing page for a listing of new lathes available on the North American retail market.
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